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Servicing PA, NJ, MD, DE and VA

Business Hours:
Monday-Friday 7:00 am - 4:00 pm

Shipping or Delivery Inquiries:
800.262.2127

Frequently Asked Questions

We are currently working on a database of frequently asked questions.
What follows are common questions we receive each year. If you have a question,
please feel free to contact us at questions@fisherandson.com.


  • General
    • A customer owns a vacant lot that they want to seed in about two weeks. What would you recommend to spray to do a complete kill of everything, so they can seed?

      They can use any type of Glyphosate product. This will allow you to seed within 5-7 days after application.
      What is a good grass seed that can be used a cheap quick cover?

      Builders Throw & Grow
      What should a customer put down with a seed application? Why would they use this?

      A starter fertilizer should always be applied with a seed application. The starter fertilizer helps create a strong root system, which in turn will lead to a healthier lawn.
      A customer wants to know if they should buy lime for their yard, what should you tell them?

      We always recommend a customer have a soil test preformed on their soil before applying lime. The soil test will inform them of exactly what their yard may need to be at its best.
      What is a moles main food source? What makes the bait we sell work so well?

      A moles main food source is the earthworm. Talpirid is the bait of choice when it comes to eliminating moles. Talpirid mimics the moles main food source the earthworm. It is a bait not just a repellant and moles will eat the worm and be eliminated.
      I need a product to use to help prevent crab grass, but I have to seed this lawn right away. Is this possible to do? If so what product do we offer that could do this for the customer?

      Yes, it is possible. Drive works very well in this situation. It is one of the only products that you can spray will seeding and will still allow for your seed to germinate.
      What are the three components of fertilizer?

      Nitrogen, Phosphorus, and Potassium.
      Why is it important to water less days but to water deep when you do water?

      This is important because watering deep and longer will allow for your roots to travel farther down into the soil structure to look for water. The deeper your roots the stronger they will become. Watering everyday for 15 mins not only is not promoting deep root growth you could actually cause more damage since all the water is just sitting in the top inch of the soil. This may cause diseases, root rot, and many other damaging turf issues.
      What is the difference between dismiss and sedge hammer?

      Sedge hammer is only used for sedges. Dismiss not only is good to remove sedges it also contains many broad leaf weeds on its label .
      What is a product a customer could use to just give a green up to a lawn?

      Any product with iron with help to give your lawn a temporary green up.
      When is the best time of year to seed a yard?

      Best time of the year is middle of August thru end of September in our Mid-Atlantic and Northeast geographic area
      What kind of seed should I use for planting?

      Usually a blend of some kind is recommended, the blends made are specific for sun, shade, irrigated lawns and unirrigated lawns.
      Should I fertilize a new seeding?

      A starter fertilizer is recommended at or right after seeding this provides essential phosphorous for the quicker establishment of young plants. A example of a starter fertilizer analysis 10-20-15
  • Application
    • A customer owns a vacant lot that they want to seed in about two weeks. What would you recommend to spray to do a complete kill of everything, so they can seed?

      They can use any type of Glyphosate product. This will allow you to seed within 5-7 days after application.
      What is a good grass seed that can be used a cheap quick cover?

      Builders Throw & Grow
      What should a customer put down with a seed application? Why would they use this?

      A starter fertilizer should always be applied with a seed application. The starter fertilizer helps create a strong root system, which in turn will lead to a healthier lawn.
      A customer wants to know if they should buy lime for their yard, what should you tell them?

      We always recommend a customer have a soil test preformed on their soil before applying lime. The soil test will inform them of exactly what their yard may need to be at its best.
      What is a moles main food source? What makes the bait we sell work so well?

      A moles main food source is the earthworm. Talpirid is the bait of choice when it comes to eliminating moles. Talpirid mimics the moles main food source the earthworm. It is a bait not just a repellant and moles will eat the worm and be eliminated.
      I need a product to use to help prevent crab grass, but I have to seed this lawn right away. Is this possible to do? If so what product do we offer that could do this for the customer?

      Yes, it is possible. Drive works very well in this situation. It is one of the only products that you can spray will seeding and will still allow for your seed to germinate.
      What are the three components of fertilizer?

      Nitrogen, Phosphorus, and Potassium.
      Why is it important to water less days but to water deep when you do water?

      This is important because watering deep and longer will allow for your roots to travel farther down into the soil structure to look for water. The deeper your roots the stronger they will become. Watering everyday for 15 mins not only is not promoting deep root growth you could actually cause more damage since all the water is just sitting in the top inch of the soil. This may cause diseases, root rot, and many other damaging turf issues.
      What is the difference between dismiss and sedge hammer?

      Sedge hammer is only used for sedges. Dismiss not only is good to remove sedges it also contains many broad leaf weeds on its label .
      What is a product a customer could use to just give a green up to a lawn?

      Any product with iron with help to give your lawn a temporary green up.
      When is the best time of year to seed a yard?

      Best time of the year is middle of August thru end of September in our Mid-Atlantic and Northeast geographic area
      What kind of seed should I use for planting?

      Usually a blend of some kind is recommended, the blends made are specific for sun, shade, irrigated lawns and unirrigated lawns.
      Should I fertilize a new seeding?

      A starter fertilizer is recommended at or right after seeding this provides essential phosphorous for the quicker establishment of young plants. A example of a starter fertilizer analysis 10-20-15
  • Seed Establishment
    • What is seed starter mulch?

      Seed starter mulch is recycled newspaper with a tackifier, moisture absorbing additives and nutrients added into it. It helps seed germinate faster, keeps seed moist and helps keep seed from washing out of planted areas during rain. PennMulch is applied at 50 to 80 pounds per 1000 sq . ft
      Are there any wetting agents out there that don't contain Alcohol?

      Tri-Cure from Mitchell Products uses as an active ingredient 100% Poly Epoxide and contains no Nonyl Phenol in it's formulation to cause water loss. Tri-Cure can be mixed with most fungicides and fertilizers on the market today. Do a jar test to be sure.
      I am starting to use a liquid based Organic program on my greens now. Do any of them have wetting agents in them?

      Earthworks offers a Soil Conditioner called Kick that contains Lauryl Sulfate which is a natural wetting agent that acts like a soil penetrant. Kick can save you from having to add a separate wetting agent to your program.
      Most wetting agent pellets take 30-45 minutes to fully dissolve how can I know if I have applied the pellet to the correct square footage?

      Tri-Cure Pellets are formulated to cover 1000 square feet per 1 oz. of actual product, thus a standard 6 oz. pellet will cover 6,000 square feet with a Dissolution rate is typically 8-15 minutes using a 1 inch hose at 80-100 psi.
      Are there any effective products for Dew Control to help with early morning Starts?

      Mitchell Products Dew-Cure is a new addition to the market place to specifically control the formulation of Dew on the turf plant. Apply Dew-Cure at 4 oz. rate in 2 gallons of water to dry turf and you should be set for at least 2 weeks of additional control.
  • Crabgrass Control
    • What are the differences between Barricade and Dimension herbicide?

      Barricade - This product has the lowest water solubility and longest residual, it can also be applied in the fall of the year for crabgrass control through the following growing season. It controls over 30 grassy and broadleaf weeds.

      Dimension - It has both pre-emergent and post-emergent control of crabgrass, it has a low odor and can be applied in a single or split application. It controls over 40 grassy and broadleaf weeds.
      Do I need to water in my pre-emergent?

      Yes, all pre-emergents need either 0.5 inches of rainfall or irrigation after application.
      What is the best time to apply my pre-emergent?

      Dimension can be applied for crabgrass control up to the fifth leaf stage of the plant. All other pre-emergent applications need to be applied prior to weed germination. Crabgrass usually germinates when the soil temperatures reach approximately 62 - 65 degrees Fahrenheit.
      What is the length of control I should expect out of my pre-emergent?

      This depends on which product you use and the rate that is applied. You should receive at least 3 months and up to 8 months of control. All products can be applied as split applications which will extend the amount of control you will receive. The timing of the split applications depends on the product but it usually ranges from 6 to 8 weeks after initial application. You should always read the label to get the exact timing for application.
  • Tree and Shrub Pest Control
    • What products should I use in a tree and shrub program and when should I use them?

      Unless you have a specific problem broad spectrum control products are recommend. These control a wide range of either fungus or insects. Products such as horticultural oil, talstar, sevin, banner maxx, merit, daconil etc. can be mixed to provide a comprehensive preventative control package. A good program starts in the spring with a horticultural oil to mainly control egg masses and scale. Then a mix of an insect control and fungicide applied at 6+/- weeks can control 85% of problematic pests. In the fall root level fertilization of trees and shrubs is recommended.
      What is the story with season long control of problematic insects for trees and shrubs?

      Soil injection using a nicotinyl compound such as merit (Imidacloprid) will give season long control of many insects including lace bug, leafminers, aphids, soft shell scale, borers and many other leaf feeding pests. Merit does not control spider mites. An injection into the soil during the fall will keep labeled insects under control for the entire following season. The material is taken into the plant during the fall and following spring and translocated throughout. A bark spray using a more water soluble nicotinyl such as safari will enter the plant and translocate quickly but does not have the longevity of control as merit does. This would be used during the growing season.
      How do I deal with borers, especially if I do not know the specific type of borer?

      Onyx, by FMC, is the recommended product spraying the bark for up to 3 months of control per spray. Since there are so many different borers with different life cycles it can be difficult to know the proper timing of the spray. Doing 2 sprays in a season will give you control over possibly a 6 month period. Onyx has the same active ingredient as talstar (bifenthrin) but in a different formulation for borer control.
      Spider Mites, what do I do about them?

      Spider mites are not controlled by regular insecticides. To determine if you have a mite problem do a "tap test". Using a piece of paper hold it under the suspect branches and tap the branches so debris falls on the paper. Then look at the small spots and see if they are moving or using your thumb rub some of the spots to look for a blood trail. A true miticide is needed for effective management. Some insect control products list mites on the label but only give suppression. In reverse, true miticides do not have an effect on other pests. Floramite, Avid, Hexagon and Forbid are considered true miticides. Horticultural oils are also very effective on mite outbreaks. There is another type of spider mite called the eriophoid mite that miticides do not control. Sevin is recommended for this pest.
      Scale, what do I do?

      Horticultural Oil is one of the best controls for all types of scale. It kills by suffocation making complete coverage necessary. The use of superior refined oil is recommended to prevent plant injury. For soft shell scale soil injections using merit will work. This is especially useful when treating large trees such as magnolia with magnolia scale. Another treatment is a more water soluble nicotinyl such as safari will work very well as a spray. Scale is on the label of many insecticides but when you read they control in the crawler stage (just after egg hatch). After the insect locates it develops its shell protecting them from insect sprays with only a couple exceptions.
      What fertilizer should I use for evergreen trees and shrubs?

      Ericaceous plants respond well to fertilizers which are acidic in nature. Sulfate based nutrient forms are recommended. Lebanon Seaboard builds a product with the label "Woodace A.C.R.E." It is a 12-3-6 Fertilizer with micro nutrients and works to acidify soils. Applied in the spring or fall will yield the best results for nutrient uptake and (when applied by the label directions) will release throughout one complete growing season. Fisher and Son also offers a 10-10-10 Ammonium Sulfate based material that can be applied in the same manner. This product can be spread beneath your other shrubs as well. Early spring or late fall would be the best timing for this application. Speak to your sales representative for exact recommendations.
      Mauget Injectors: In what type of weather can I use Mauget injectors?

      The best weather for injecting Mauget products is when the tree is moving nutrients actively through the tree (not in dormant months) to and from the roots. Good moisture in the soil is needed. Sunny days with low humidity levels will move the product quickly from the injector and into the tree. Cloudy and humid days are ok to inject on, but it may take a bit longer for the material to exit the injector.
      How do I calibrate my backpack sprayer?

      Refer to the Fisher and Son "Resource Manual" on the last few pages (Page 66 in 2008). This is the most neglected practice and may be causing you to apply to much or too little pesticide or fertilizer to the target.
      How do I know if my trees and shrubs need lime or other nutrients?

      Always use a soil test to direct your programs for fertility needs. A simple soil test performed every 2-3 years can save fertilizer waste and focus on the needs of the soil and specific plant species. Your sales representative can recommend the best test(s) for you.
      How do I control chickweed that has recently appeared in my lawn this fall?

      Winter annuals like chickweed and henbit germinate in the early fall. Treating them on a warm October (above 68F) day will take care of these problematic weeds in beds and lawns. Products to control: Vessel, Millenium Ultra. If treating when temps are below 68F use Cool Power. Also, in beds, spot treatments with Glyphosate Pro 4 can be made (non-selective herbicide - do not get on desirable plants).
      What are the bag like objects hanging on my evergreens?

      Bagworms. Bagworms should be treated early in the growing season (June). You can treat with Provaunt when the bags are small If you have trees or shrubs that have a history of bagworms, treat with a product that contains imidacloprid (Merit/Zenith/Imicide) to provide several seasons of protection.
      FisherLink: http://www.ext.vt.edu/departments/entomology/factsheets/bagworm.html
      What is the white coating that develops on the leaves of some deciduous shrubs and perennials in the summer?

      Powdery Mildew is a common disease of many deciusous ornamental shrubs and perennials. Primarily a cosmetic problem it is easily prevented by using an appropriate fungicide when the plant is actively growing throughout the spring. Look for products with active ingredients that include: triadimefon (Bayleton), myclobutanil (Hoist), propiconazole (Fathom), thiophanate methyl (Transom)l + mancozeb (Fore). Best to treat preventatively.
      FisherLink: http://www.ext.vt.edu/pubs/plantdiseasefs/450-603/450-603.html
      The dogwood trees on the property have spots on the leaves, what are they?

      It is likely spot anthracnose ( Elsinoe corni) first appear very early in the spring on the bracts, and later on the foliage. Spot anthracnose can be controlled preventatively with chlorothalonil, (MainSail), mancozeb ( Fore), or thiophanate methyl (Transom)l + mancozeb (Fore). Spraying should begin when buds begin to open and be repeated when bracts have fallen, four weeks after bract fall, and in late summer after flower buds have formed.
      FisherLink: http://www.ext.vt.edu/pubs/plantdiseasefs/450-611/450-611.html
  • Foundation Planting Maintenance
    • What can I do to improve my perennial and annual, flower and shrub beds?

      Start with a soil test. Until you know the makeup of your soil profile, it is hard to plan a management strategy. Once you know what type of soil you are dealing with you can address the physical, chemical, and biological needs of your soil. We offer soil testing and also carry a wide variety of soil amendments, inoculants, organic fertilizers and chemicals, to address deficiencies, and improve the health and vigor of planting beds.
      How do I control weeds in my ornamental beds?

      The best way to control weeds is to stop them before they start. In early spring, before the forsythia drop their blossoms, you should apply a pre-emergent herbicide and a good quality, fully-composted mulch to your planting beds. You'll want to choose fully composted mulch so it doesn't rob your plants of nitrogen as it completes the composting process. Some good choices for your herbicide are RegalStar-G, Snapshot, Barricade or Pendulum, depending on the weeds you are working to manage.
      I spend too much time pruning my landscape. Any suggestions?

      First, choose plants wisely. Anticipate what your plants will look like at maturity and select the proper varieties and sizes for your site. Having said that, we have to play the hand we are dealt. If you have aggressive varieties such as Manhattan euonymus that you must maintain, you can reduce pruning, labor and debris disposal by applying a growth regulator in the spring. Cutless Granular has done a great job since it was introduced last year. When treating hedges, be sure to apply evenly to both sides.
      What is a good ornamental fertilizer to use in my planting beds?

      Again, having a soil test is key. Once you have the soil in good shape, applying a balanced fertilizer is your best choice. Earthworks 3-4-3 Organic, Earthworks 5-4-5 Organic, and Woodace 14-14-14 with micros are all good choices. They will provide balanced fertility and slow, steady nutrition, with a minimum chance of burning. You can also apply FSC 20-20-20 (water soluble) as a drench to perk up beds mid-season.
  • Turfgrass Health
    • What are the main factors to consider when irrigating considering turfgrass health?

      The obvious value of irrigation is to prevent drought stress. However, the manner in which you irrigate also has a significant impact on the management of turfgrass diseases. Drought-stressed plants are more susceptible to injury by necrotic ring spot, dollar spot, rusts, stripe smut and melting-out. On the other hand, over-watered plants can have other disease problems.
      • When to irrigate. If you irrigate in the evening, you increase the duration of leaf wetness and your turfgrass' susceptibility to disease. A moist environment promotes fungal spore germination and growth, and increases the occurrence and severity of disease. When you irrigate in the early morning or in the afternoon, you reduce the duration of leaf wetness. This limits environmental conditions favorable for the development of turfgrass disease. Early morning irrigation has the added benefit of removing guttational fluids from the leaf surface, thus limiting the availability of the added nutrients to turfgrass pathogens. Afternoon irrigation also cools the turf and thereby reduces heat stress.
      • How much water to apply. The amount of water you apply during each irrigation cycle and the frequency of your irrigations can also have a significant impact on turfgrass diseases. Overwatering is as much of a problem, if not more so, than underwatering. Schedule your irrigation run time and frequency to replace soil moisture that is lost to evaporation and transpiration. If you irrigate excessively, you will promote waterlogging. This results in poorly developed root systems and a greater likelihood of necrotic ring spot, summer patch, anthracnose and black layer.

      Alter the irrigation schedule to promote the recovery of turfgrasses with reduced root systems caused by patch diseases. Lightly irrigate these turfs daily and implement a midday syringe cycle to help reduce heat stress.
      What are the key aspects of mowing that have an impact on turfgrass disease?

      Mowing is the most intensive cultural practice that you will perform on turfgrasses. Several aspects of mowing have an impact on turfgrass diseases, and you can manage each one of them.
      • Height of cut. The first aspect of mowing of which you should be aware is height of cut. If you cut turf below its preferred mowing height, the plants' carbohydrate supplies become depleted. This will reduce root growth and result in smaller, shallower root systems. Eventually, the plant may become more susceptible to environmental stresses. Root health also impacts turfgrass' susceptibility to patch diseases, anthracnose, rusts, dollar spot, melting-out and leaf spots. However, if your height of cut is excessively tall, moisture will be prevalent in the grass canopy. This environment can be favorable for diseases like pythium blight, brown patch and typhula blight.
      • Quality of cut. When using dull mower blades, you cause excessive injury to plants by tearing and bruising tissues. This can have an obvious impact on aesthetics and stress, but what is its impact on turfgrass disease? Researchers have found that the incidence of dollar spot on bentgrass can be 10 percent greater when dull mower blades are used. While this is a single instance of the effect of mowing on disease, it may apply to other foliar diseases.
      • Time of day. When you mow also has a profound impact on turfgrass diseases. When you mow early in the morning, not only do you prepare your golf course for daily play, you also remove dew from the foliage and reduce the duration of leaf wetness. Most foliar fungal diseases need this moisture. The longer the foliage is wet, the greater the opportunity for infection. Also, about 30 percent of the "dew" that accumulates on turfgrass plants is actually guttation fluid (produced by the plant). These fluids contain nutrients that can promote the development of dollar spot and other foliar diseases. Studies show that morning mowing can reduce dollar spot by as much as 58 percent on golf-course fairways.

      While removing dew is a benefit, you are faced with certain risks. Pythium blight, microdochium patch and, to an extent, dollar spot, are aggressive. If you mow when these diseases are actively infecting turf, you can spread the pathogen and cause streaking along the mowing pattern.
      Why is it important to manage thatch in your turfgrass?

      An excessive thatch layer does not cause disease; rather, it creates an environment favorable to disease development. Turfgrasses often develop vigorous roots in thatch layers. However, the roots are prone to drought stress because they lack the protective cover of soil. Increased drought sensitivity reduces root growth and allows these plants to be exploited by necrotic ring spot, summer patch, stripe smuts, melting out and rusts. To manage thatch, frequently core aerate and topdress where applicable. These practices also will reduce soil compaction, which restricts root systems and inhibits soil drainage. These conditions can lead to pythium root rot, anthracnose and may induce the formation of black layer.
      How does Nitrogen factor into turfgrass health?

      Nitrogen. Nitrogen plays an important role in plant color, density and growth. It also requires a balancing act to use it for disease management. If you do not apply enough nitrogen, your turf may experience an increase in foliar diseases such as dollar spot, red thread, rusts, anthracnose and melting out. It may also experience an increased susceptibility to the patch diseases of necrotic ring spot and summer patch. Even cultivars that are genetically resistant to diseases such as necrotic ring spot or melting out may be susceptible if you do not apply enough nitrogen.

      However, if you apply too much nitrogen, succulent growth occurs. When this happens, turfgrasses become more susceptible to pythium blight, brown patch, stripe smut, microdochium patch (pink snow mold) and typhula blight (gray snow mold). In order to use nitrogen to affect disease, you must anticipate the time of the year certain diseases occur. For instance, some of the patch diseases are prevalent in summer. Summer applications of N, which cause succulent growth, may contribute to outbreaks.

      Your nitrogen source can also have a significant impact on turfgrass diseases. If you use organic nitrogen sources, you may suppress turfgrass diseases such as necrotic ring spot, summer patch, dollar spot, brown patch, pythium root rot and typhula blight. While slow-release nitrogen produces the most consistent turfgrass growth rates over time, water-soluble ammonium sulfate can reduce the severity of several diseases including summer patch, take-all patch and spring dead spot of bermudagrass. Use quick-release nitrogen formulations to promote rapid recovery from turfgrass disease damage. However, keep in mind that it is possible for succulent growth to occur with these nitrogen sources.
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Fisher & Son Co., Inc.  •  110 Summit Drive  •  Exton PA  19341  •  800.262.2127
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